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We wander for
distraction, but we travel for fulfillment. ~
Hilaire Belloc
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When we
realize our insignificance in this world,
it some how relieves the
pressures from society to succeed -
Cindy Bonish 04/07
Preparing Your
Camper for Winter Storage
A. To begin winterizing
your RV:
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*Remove
all perishable and freezable items
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*Wash
countertops, sinks and cabinets with mild dishwashing detergent
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*Turn
off all lights
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*Make
sure all appliances are off
-
*Tightly
close all windows and roof vents, leave a
screened window open a crack for ventilation.
-
*Close
blinds & window shades
-
*Remove
any batteries from clocks
or smoke detectors and coat the contact points with petroleum
jelly.
-
*Inspect
vent openings and re-caulk if needed.
-
*Turn
off the LP gas
B. Air Conditioner
-
*Remove
air conditioning filter, clean, then replace.
-
*Cover
exterior vent to prevent rodent entrance/nesting. Use a cover
especially made for the A/C unit. (Do not use plastic because
condensation can cause damage to the unit.)
C. Refrigerator
-
*Remove
all food
-
*Defrost
unit and turn off refrigerator
-
*Clean
and dry inside of the refrigerator
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*Latch
the door slightly ajar (for ventilation)
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*Cover
exterior vents. (See Appliance Vents section - letter J).
-
*Place
mothballs in the general vicinity of (but not in) the gas burner
assembly of the refrigerator. The reason for this is that spiders are
attracted to the smell of the gas and can cause gas flow blockages at
the burner.
D. Water System
-
*Drain
all tanks
a. Fresh water
b. Hot water heater (to cool water turn off prior to draining).
c. Septic
d. Gray
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*Open
pressure relief valve on hot water heater (located top right portion
of the tank) or open a hot water faucet inside. Remove drain plug
until spring
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*Open
all additional drain valves
-
*Open
all faucets inside (including shower head - disconnect shower hose at
faucet)
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*Turn
on the water pump and let it run until no water appears at the tap
-
*If
temperature will be below freezing while unit is still in storage,
continue with the next steps.
a. Close all taps and drain valves.
b. If you have a water purifier remove it and store in a warm
place.
-
Thoroughly rinse both
gray and septic tanks and drain again (to do a really good job, fill
both tanks with a few gallons of fresh water and drive around a couple
of blocks before draining them).
c. Close the dumping valves and
replace the cap.
-
*Place
mothballs in the general vicinity (not in) of the gas burner assembly
of the hot water heater. The reason being is that spiders are
attracted to the smell of gas and can cause gas flow blockages at the
burner.
-
*Two
Methods of Winterizing - Wet & Dry.
Winterizing using
non-toxic antifreeze - Wet Method
- *If
your RV is equipped with a hot water tank bypass, close the
appropriate valves to disconnect the tank from the remainder of the
water system and pour 3 to 5 gallons of nontoxic "RV Approved"
antifreeze into the fresh water tank. (DO NOT use automotive type
antifreeze. It is poisonous and will destroy the ABS piping.) Note:
"RV Approved" antifreeze is recyclable and can be used next year.
- *If
your unit is not equipped with a hot water bypass, you will need
approximately 10 gallons of antifreeze.
- *Turn
on the water pump, open each water tap one at a time, (hot water first
then cold) until antifreeze appears at the spout, then close faucets.
- *Protect
the drain system by pouring 8-10 ounces of antifreeze (or letting some
run out of the faucet) down the drain at the sinks, lavatory and
shower/tub pan.
- *Operate
toilet flush mechanism until antifreeze appears (let a small amount
enter the bowl).
- *Turn
off the pump - Unit is winterized!
Winterizing Using
Compressed Air - Dry Method
- *Open
all drains in the system, including the hot-water tank
- *Purchase
an air-fitting adapter for the city water fill so that you can blow
the air from the lines at that location.
- *Run
the 12V DC pump with a faucet open until it runs dry.
- *Connect
the air fitting to city water hookup and open the faucet farthest from
the water pump. Close all drains in the system, except the hot water
tank. Blow air through the city hook-up line until only air comes out
(use no more than 20-30 psi)
- *Open
another faucet and then close the first one and blow out that line
until it is clear. Continue this procedure throughout the unit until
all lines have blown clean.
- *Leave
faucets open (don't forget the outside shower). Keep the toilet flush
valve open (by using a rolled up newspaper) and leave low point drains
open
- *Pour
10-12 ounces of nontoxic "RV Approved" antifreeze down each drain
(i.e. kitchen, bath sink, shower, & toilet) to protect p-traps. (DO
NOT use automotive type antifreeze. It is poisonous and will destroy
the ABS piping.) Note: "RV Approved" antifreeze is recyclable and can
be used next year.
- *Unit
is Winterized!
E. Awnings
-
*Need
to be clean and dry when stored (trapped moisture can cause damage).
-
*Lubricate
all moving parts with silicone spray
-
*Make sure there are no leaves or
debris in the awning when you roll it up
F. Tires
-
*To
protect from sunlight and unchanging weight!
a. Steady weight creates weakened flat spots - take the weight
off the tires by supporting the trailer with wooden blocks or
manufactured jack stands (avoid hollow core concrete blocks). Consult
your owner's manual for proper locations for jacking and supporting.
Note: Do not use your unit's leveling jacks for an extended
period. Over time they will work their way back
down.
b. Select a hard level surface for blocking the RV (not soil,
it changes too much).
c. Decrease the air pressure to eliminate stress (preferably to
about 10 or 12 lbs. so the tire keeps its shape).
d. Use a tire protectant, such as Protectant 303, to protect
the tire sidewalls from cracking
-
*Tire covers are a good addition to
keep the sun off of the tires for long term storage
G. Furnace
-
*Turn
the main gas supply to the furnace off
-
*Turn
off the electric power and turn off all thermostats.
-
*Cover
exterior vent (See Appliance Vent section - letter J). You may wish to
use small screens on the intake and exhaust parts
to keep rodents and bugs out.
H. LP System
-
*Remove
the regulator and pigtails (hoses) and store in a warm place.
-
*Tape
the supply hose shut to prevent moisture from entering the system.
-
*Have
an LP attendant put some anhydrous methanol in the cylinders to combat
moisture.
-
*Wash
the cylinder and check for chipped paint (touch up as needed).
I. Batteries
-
*Check
the water level and make sure the battery is fully charged.
-
*Disconnect
cables and coat the cable ends and the battery terminals with
petroleum jelly (deters corrosion). If corrosion exists, clean with a
solution of water & baking soda using a wire brush.
-
*Remove
the battery from your RV and store in a cool, dry place above freezing
(i.e. unheated garage). Note: Do not place batteries on a
concrete floor - batteries will discharge.
-
*Check
the charge state of the battery once every 3 months and bring the
battery up to a full charge as needed - use a UL approved battery
charger (around 10 amps) with complete shut-off to prevent
overcharging. (Most automotive stores sell an
inexpensive battery tender that will keep it charged all winter with a
slight trickle charge. These are inexpensive and well worth the
cost)
J. Appliance Vents
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*To
prevent nesting of rodents and entrance of blowing snow:
a. Seal all visible openings such as furnace exhaust, water
heater vent, refrigerator vent and kitchen fan exhaust with heavy
gauge plastic or aluminum foil. Use metal covers where rodents might
enter (they may chew through plastic).
b. Lubricate all door hinges (prevents rusting).
c. If your area has a problem with rodents - consider leaving
traps with non-perishable bait inside (check regularly).
d. Place moth balls in both the interior and exterior
compartments, but remember that the moth ball smell
is hard to get rid of if the unit sits for long periods.
K. Lock the unit
and periodically check all covers and recharge batteries, remove snow
accumulation with push broom while in storage. Note: Do not walk on the
roof without proper support in place. Wait until Spring (see Spring
start-up).
L. Covered Storage
-
*There are plenty of options for
covered storage of your camper. A cover isn't always the best
best as it allows moisture to stay trapped between the cover and the
RV.
-
*For the cost of a very high-end
breathable fabric cover, you can probably purchase a hard cover to
park the RV under. Check out
Northern Tool
for many options. With a cover like
this, you don't need to worry about snow accumulation or winter
storms reeking havoc on your expensive investment.
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